How a Tippmann A5 Works
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How a Tippmann A5 Works

Hey guys. Lord Odin here. Today we’re going over
the basic operation of the Tippmann A5 marker. Although the diagram shows an A5, the information can be applied to the X7
blowback, 98 Custom, and U.S. Army line of markers such as the Alpha Black,
Project Salvo, and Carver One. They may appear different on the outside but
on the inside the guts are almost identical and you may often find that the parts are
interchangeable from marker to marker, depending on the model. Some of you may already be familiar with
Meph’s animation, but I’ve painstakingly
converted it over to Flash so we can get a better understanding of the
mechanics of the marker. So let’s begin. Once a tank is connected to the ASA,
or Air Source Adapter, air will enter into the gas line and through the ASA plug. Air now enters the tombstone, where it is
funneled into a narrow channel prior to entering the valve. It goes through the valve o-ring and washer, around
the valve spring, and stops at the valve plunger. The plunger creates a seal against the valve
seat and prevents air from continuing through the marker. At this point, it is pressurized
and ready to fire. The marker won’t fire until the rear bolt, or hammer,
is released by the trigger. The hammer waits under tension by the compressed
drive spring inside of it but is held in place by the trigger sear. The drive spring pushes on the hammer and, in turn,
pushes on the sear. The operator squeezes the trigger, which rotates
around a pin, and lifts the front of the sear. The sear also rotates around a pin until the lip of it clears the hammer. Once that happens, multiple things happen simultaneously. The trigger sear is pushed backwards by the
sear spring and is reset, where it waits for the hammer to return. The hammer is connected by a linkage arm to
the front bolt and entire assembly moves together in unison by means of the drive spring
pushing on the hammer. As it moves forward, the entire
assembly builds up momentum. The front bolt is pushed forward and, in turn,
pushes the paintball into the detent. The detent folds downward, out of the way,
and the paintball passes through the barrel adapter, into the breech end of the barrel, followed by the front bolt. At the same time, the hammer enters the powertube
and the o-ring creates an airtight seal. The hammer then strikes the valve pin
on the valve plunger. It pushes the plunger forward and breaks the
seal inside the valve, allowing the air to escape. Air travels in two different
directions at this point. Firstly, it travels backwards into the cavity
created by the walls of the powertube, the face of the hammer, and the face of the valve. This is referred to as the blowback gas. This air builds up pressure
inside of this cavity and, combined with the valve spring, begins
to reset the marker by driving the hammer, linkage arm, and front bolt backwards. Secondly, air splits into two halves and turns
90 degrees on both sides of the valve. We’ll refer to this is the propellant gas to
differentiate it from the blowback gas. Here, the air, yet again, diverts into two directions. One way is through the side of the marker,
where air powers the Cyclone and Response Trigger. Both of which operate on the propellant gas; not the blowback gas that pushes back the hammer. The other way has the air turn 90 degrees
and channels it forward through four grooves located outside of the valve. If you have an older style A5 valve or Low
Pressure Kit valve, there will be 2 large grooves instead of 4 smaller ones. Once past the tombstone, the air converges
in a small pocket of the powertube, where it is then funneled into the powertube
small extension, which allows the front bolt to slide back and forth. The air travels through the extension, through the front bolt, and finally pushes
the paintball through the barrel. Now the marker has fired and needs to reset. At this point, hammer continues traveling backwards
until the valve plunger creates a seal against the valve seat again, cutting off air supply
to the marker. One the hammer o-ring clears
the end of the powertube, most of the gases expelled throughout the back
of the marker come from this small cavity. The momentum of the hammer continues to drive
it backwards and compresses the drive spring. The hammer slides over the sear until it slams
into the end-cap o-ring. It then travels forward again until the sear catches
the hammer and resets the sear. The marker is now ready to fire again. And that’s it! This may seem like a complex operation but
if you open up your degassed marker, study the parts, and move the assembly back and forth, you will
begin to understand what’s going on. Hopefully this video often will help in explaining
the marker’s operation, and will help you with things such as assembly,
maintenance, and upgrades. Stay tuned for future videos
and thanks for watching.

About Roger Trantham

Read All Posts By Roger Trantham

100 thoughts on “How a Tippmann A5 Works

  1. hey i just bought a project salvo! trigger does not push sear high enough to release the bolt ?! the pins seem very loose int he holes and there is a small pin behind the trigger welded to the body the trigger hits this pin (close to rt hole) and is not shown int he illustration or in any video i watch should i remove this little piece of metal? it seem to be the cause of the trigger stopping premature to the sear releasing the bolt. even stops before the trigger stop pin is contacted! plz help

  2. So if the hammer doesn't catch on the trigger, you just pull the bolt back? I assume the hammer is connected to the bolt.

  3. WOW! Thank you for posting this video and spending time to explain it! I was looking for something like this! 🙂 Now I feel more confident at what i'll be expecting when I open up my marker.

  4. Now i understand why it auto-sputters when its low on gas. There isn't enough pressure to drive the hammer back far enough to catch on the latch, so it just bounces back and forth on the spring hitting the valve pin over and over.

  5. I remember the first time I opened my 98 and all the springs flew out everywhere, lol bad news, then 2 years after owning it the salve and hose leaked.

  6. this looks exactly like how my bt combat works… I wonder if the a5 e-grip would fit on it? (Seeing as I've heard bad things about the bt e-grip.) The trigger parts look exactly the same…

  7. wow!, dude, i have a problem at my trigger, does not keep the striker at the back position, can i modificate the "purple piece" at the video?
    i have a BT delta marker..
    TY 🙂

  8. I wouldn't. Make sure you removed overspray by polishing your clamshells so that the hammer can fully return.

  9. make sure the spring pushing the sear (purple piece) is strong enough to push itself up into the seating area of the hammer.

  10. At 1:35, you'll see that the trigger sear is pushed by the spring and waits for the hammer. It can't go full auto because of this. If the sear pivot hole wasn't oversized to allow movement like that, it would become full auto.

  11. Nice flash animation. But i didn't understand where you were when you were talking about. i could not follow the conversation along with the video. Maybe next time highlight the subject of dialogue a little bigger or clearer. Just my opinion. 🙂

  12. this is simple mechanism because the operation and the parts are mostly 2d. whereas in real firearms there are complex mechanisms even in 3d.

  13. Nice video. Still wondering why many markers rely on electronics to achieve full auto. Guessing it's the least invasive way, but still annoying your firing controls depend on the reliability of a 9v battery.

  14. does any one know if they make a conversion kit to make the A5 a mag fed marker. and is it possible to make the adapter the reverse way to where your using either the 12 gram cartridge or the 16 gram

  15. Very well made, and explained! This should go to a TV documentary, for it has enough quality. I wish that someday a similar work will come up explaining with this detail level, how a gas and a Co2 blow back and non blow back 1911, P-08, M-712 C-96, works…

  16. Incredibly well made and narrated. I opened up my marker and was able to figure out how things worked. Now, having this visual reference to demonstrate the firing sequence to others is fantastic.

    A huge thank you for the painstaking diagram conversion to Flash.

  17. never upload a video again when you talk all I hear is mouth noises it just pissed me off so bad fuck off shove that gun up your ass

  18. This guh live in us? Cuz odin makes, a random 4 year old I found at the bookstore, this guy, and me are the only people I know named odin, and I friggin seafch for em

  19. Hello Lord Odin Presents. Before i get to my Question, I would just like to say thank you for posting the "How a Tippmann A5 Works" Video. It was an amazing way for me to understand my own A5 on a more mechanical level.Now, I converted my A5 to a magfed Tacamo Vortex. But in doing so, I had MULTIPLE issues getting my marker to work properly. My gun would Double/Triple fire, then suddenly de-gas, forcing me to recock the handle after a few trigger pulls. I even replaced the trigger sear, but it didn't change anything. I converted my gun back to the A5, and it suddenly works again, no problems… My observation of the Vortex compared to the A5, is that on the vortex my buttstock is wobbly. Secondly, i have pretty bad power tube plugs on the side of the vortex marker. I would just like to know which do you think is the problem? Do you think, because of the wobbly buttstock, the spring guide rod would prevent the hammer from fully reaching my trigger sear? Or do you think i'm getting a lack of gas due to bad Power Tube Plugs?..

  20. 2 hours of google search and this is the best I have found on this topic. Thank you for making this video.

  21. The sear is key in all semi autos to full autos.
    The problems are always Timely municitions delevery.

    Pop filed the sear on an old marlin 22.
    Bent more bullets than it fired.

  22. Hi Lord Odin, I remember you from the A5OG forum days 🙂 We now have a growing Facebook group and you should drop by:

    I'm 'Johnski English', hopefully speak to you there

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